Beginner Aquarium Setup Checklist: Everything You Need
Complete equipment lists, budget tiers, and step-by-step setup guide for your first fish tank. Start your fishkeeping journey the right way.
Quick Summary
This complete checklist covers everything from choosing the right tank size to selecting equipment and cycling your aquarium. Budget options included for all price ranges ($100-$500+). Bookmark this page and check off items as you acquire them.
Why Equipment Selection Matters
Starting your first aquarium is exciting, but buying the wrong equipment wastes money and harms fish. Many beginners make costly mistakes:
- Buying tanks that are too small (harder to maintain stable water parameters)
- Under-sizing filters or heaters (poor water quality, temperature swings)
- Skipping the test kit (can't monitor the crucial nitrogen cycle)
- Adding fish before cycling (new tank syndrome kills fish within days)
This checklist prevents these mistakes. Whether you're working with a tight budget or want a premium setup, I'll show you exactly what to buy and why.
Use Our Free Calculators
Before shopping, use these tools to plan your setup:
Budget Comparison: Three Setup Tiers
Choose the budget level that works for you. All three tiers will successfully keep fish - the differences are in quality, longevity, and features.
| Category | Budget ($100-150) | Mid-Range ($250-350) | Premium ($500+) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tank Size | 10 gallons | 20 gallons long | 40 gallons breeder |
| Filter Type | Basic HOB (hang-on-back) | Quality HOB filter | Canister filter |
| Heater | 50W basic heater | 100W adjustable | 200W+ with LCD display |
| Lighting | Basic LED hood | Adjustable LED | Programmable planted tank LED |
| Test Kit | Test strips | API Master Kit (liquid) | API Master + GH/KH kit |
| Best For | First-time hobbyist, small space | Serious beginner, long-term hobby | Advanced setups, planted tanks |
Recommendation: Most beginners should target the mid-range tier. It provides quality equipment that lasts years without breaking the bank. The budget tier works but may require upgrades sooner.
Essential Equipment Checklist
Here's exactly what you need, organized by category. Check off items as you acquire them.
1. The Tank
Your tank is the foundation. Bigger is actually easier for beginners because water parameters stay more stable.
Recommended Tank Sizes
- ✓ 10 gallons: Minimum for beginners. Limited fish options but manageable. Dimensions: 20" × 10" × 12"
- ✓ 20 gallons long: Ideal for most beginners. More floor space for active fish. Dimensions: 30" × 12" × 12"
- ✓ 40 gallons breeder: Best long-term choice if you have space. Very stable, plenty of stocking options. Dimensions: 36" × 18" × 16"
Avoid These Tanks
- ✗ Bowls and vases: No filtration, poor oxygen exchange, harmful to all fish
- ✗ Tanks under 5 gallons: Too small for stable parameters, even for bettas
- ✗ Tall narrow tanks: Less swimming space, harder to aquascape, poor gas exchange
Budget Pick: Aqueon 10 Gallon Kit - Includes tank, filter, LED hood ($40-50)
Mid-Range Pick: Aqueon 20 Gallon Long - Tank only, better to choose separate equipment ($30-40)
Premium Pick: 40 Gallon Breeder Tank - Standard size with excellent dimensions ($60-80)
Pro Tip: Use our Tank Volume Calculator to verify the actual water volume of your tank. Advertised gallons don't account for substrate and decorations, which reduce usable volume by 10-15%.
2. Filtration System
The filter is your tank's life support system. It removes waste, houses beneficial bacteria, and circulates water. Don't skimp here.
| Filter Type | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hang-On-Back (HOB) | Easy maintenance, affordable, space-efficient | Can be noisy, visible on tank | Beginners, tanks under 40 gal |
| Canister | Powerful, quiet, hidden in cabinet, large media capacity | More expensive, harder to clean | Larger tanks (30+ gal), serious hobbyists |
| Sponge | Gentle, safe for fry, extremely cheap | Weak mechanical filtration, requires air pump | Breeding tanks, hospital tanks, shrimp |
| Internal | Compact, submersible | Takes up tank space, limited capacity | Small tanks (under 10 gal) |
Filter Sizing Rule
Your filter should turn over the tank volume 4-6 times per hour. For a 20 gallon tank, choose a filter rated for 80-120 GPH (gallons per hour). Use our Filter GPH Calculator to find the right size.
Budget Pick: AquaClear 20 HOB Filter - 100 GPH, excellent for 10-20 gallon tanks ($30-35)
Mid-Range Pick: Marineland Penguin 200 - 200 GPH, bio-wheel technology, great for 20-30 gallons ($25-40)
Premium Pick: Fluval 307 Canister Filter - 303 GPH, ultra-quiet, perfect for 40-70 gallon tanks ($150-180)
Read our detailed comparison: Canister vs HOB Filter: Which is Better?
3. Aquarium Heater
Most popular aquarium fish are tropical and need temperatures between 76-80°F. A quality heater with a thermostat is essential.
Heater Sizing Formula
5 watts per gallon is the standard rule for typical room temperatures (68-72°F).
- 10 gallon tank = 50 watts
- 20 gallon tank = 100 watts
- 40 gallon tank = 200 watts
If your room gets very cold (below 65°F), use 7-10 watts per gallon or run two smaller heaters. Calculate your exact needs with our Heater Sizing Calculator.
Warning: Heater malfunctions can cook or freeze your fish. Always use a separate thermometer to monitor temperature. Consider two smaller heaters for larger tanks as a backup.
Budget Pick: Tetra HT Submersible Heater (50W) - Pre-set to 78°F, reliable for small tanks ($10-15)
Mid-Range Pick: Hygger Submersible Heater (100W) - Digital display, adjustable, protective guard ($20-30)
Premium Pick: Fluval E300 Advanced Heater (300W) - LCD display, dual sensors, unbreakable ($45-60)
For sizing guidance, see: Aquarium Heater Sizing Guide
4. Lighting
Fish need a day/night cycle. If you have live plants, lighting becomes even more important. Most aquariums need 6-8 hours of light daily.
Lighting Requirements by Setup Type
- Fish-only tank: Any basic LED. Focus on viewing pleasure, not intensity.
- Low-light plants: LED rated 20-30 lumens per liter. Java fern, anubias, java moss thrive.
- High-light plants: LED rated 40+ lumens per liter. Needed for carpeting plants and reds.
Budget Pick: NICREW ClassicLED - Affordable, adjustable brightness, good for fish-only or low-light plants ($25-35)
Mid-Range Pick: Hygger Full Spectrum LED - 24/7 timer, sunrise/sunset modes, supports most plants ($40-55)
Premium Pick: Fluval Plant 3.0 LED - Bluetooth app control, fully programmable, excellent for planted tanks ($140-180)
5. Thermometer
A separate thermometer is non-negotiable. Heater displays can fail, and temperature is critical for fish health.
Recommended: Marina Floating Thermometer - Accurate, easy to read ($3-5)
Digital Option: AQUANEAT Digital Thermometer - LCD display, battery-powered ($8-12)
6. Substrate
Substrate serves multiple purposes: beneficial bacteria colonization, plant rooting (if applicable), and natural appearance.
Substrate Depth Guide
- Fish-only tanks: 1-2 inches of gravel or sand
- Low-tech planted: 2-3 inches of gravel or aqua soil
- High-tech planted: 3-4 inches of aqua soil or capped soil
Rule of thumb: 1.5 pounds of substrate per gallon for 1-inch depth.
Budget Pick: Carib Sea Peace River Gravel - Natural colors, pH neutral, fish-safe ($12-18 per 20 lbs)
Planted Tank Pick: Fluval Plant and Shrimp Stratum - Nutrient-rich, promotes plant growth ($20-30 per 8.8 lbs)
Sand Option: Carib Sea Super Naturals Sand - Great for bottom-dwellers like corydoras ($15-20 per 20 lbs)
7. Water Conditioner
Tap water contains chlorine and chloramines that kill fish and beneficial bacteria. Water conditioner is essential for every water change.
Best Overall: Seachem Prime - Detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and chlorine. Super concentrated (5ml per 10 gallons). Industry standard ($10-15 per 250ml)
Budget Option: API Stress Coat - Removes chlorine, adds protective slime coat ($5-10 per 16oz)
8. Test Kit (ESSENTIAL)
A test kit is absolutely required for monitoring the nitrogen cycle and maintaining water quality. This is NOT optional.
Critical Tests to Monitor
- Ammonia: Should always be 0 ppm (anything above is toxic)
- Nitrite: Should always be 0 ppm (prevents oxygen absorption)
- Nitrate: Keep below 20 ppm with water changes (40+ ppm stresses fish)
- pH: Most fish tolerate 6.5-8.0, stability matters more than exact number
Liquid vs Test Strips
Test Strips: Convenient but less accurate. Good for quick checks once tank is established.
Liquid Tests: More accurate, better value long-term. Essential during cycling. Recommended for all beginners.
Highly Recommended: API Freshwater Master Test Kit - Tests pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. 800+ tests included. Industry standard ($25-35)
Budget Alternative: API 5-in-1 Test Strips - Tests nitrate, nitrite, hardness, pH, alkalinity ($12-18)
Read our guide: Best Aquarium Test Kits (2025)
9. Fish Net
For catching fish, removing debris, and tank maintenance. Get two different sizes.
Recommended: Marina 2-Pack Nets - Fine mesh, soft on fins ($4-7)
10. Gravel Vacuum / Siphon
Essential for water changes and cleaning substrate without removing gravel.
Best Value: Python No Spill Clean and Fill - Connects to sink, makes water changes easy ($20-35)
Budget Pick: Aqueon Gravel Vacuum - Manual siphon with bucket ($8-15)
11. Bucket (Dedicated)
Use a dedicated bucket ONLY for aquarium work. Never use it with soap or cleaning chemicals.
Recommended: 5-gallon food-safe bucket from hardware store ($3-8). Label it "AQUARIUM ONLY".
12. Algae Scraper/Magnet Cleaner
Algae will grow on tank walls. Regular cleaning keeps viewing clear.
Best Overall: Mag-Float Magnetic Cleaner - Clean glass without getting hands wet ($12-25)
Budget Pick: API Algae Pad - Simple scrubber on a stick ($3-6)
Optional but Recommended
These items aren't essential but make fishkeeping easier and more enjoyable.
Live Plants (Highly Recommended)
Benefits: Consume nitrates, produce oxygen, reduce algae, provide hiding spots. Start with hardy beginner plants.
Easy Beginner Plants:
- • Java Fern - Attach to rocks/wood, low light
- • Anubias - Nearly indestructible, slow-growing
- • Java Moss - Carpet or attach to decor
- • Amazon Sword - Classic centerpiece plant
Decorations & Hiding Spots
Fish need places to hide and feel secure. Reduces stress significantly.
Recommended Options:
- • Driftwood - Natural, great for attaching plants
- • Dragon Stone Rocks - Natural aquascaping material
- • Ceramic Caves - Breeding caves for cichlids and plecos
Light Timer
Automates day/night cycle. Prevents algae overgrowth from too much light.
BN-LINK Digital Timer - 7-day programmable ($12-18)
Quality Fish Food
Different fish need different diets. Research your species' needs.
Versatile Options:
- • Hikari Micro Pellets - Slow-sinking, most fish species
- • Omega One Flakes - High protein, vibrant colors
- • Hikari Algae Wafers - For bottom-feeders and plecos
Beneficial Bacteria Supplement
Can speed up cycling process from 6 weeks to 2-3 weeks. Not required but helpful.
Seachem Stability - Live nitrifying bacteria ($10-15)
Aquarium Salt
Treats minor ailments and stress. NOT for all fish (avoid with scaleless species).
API Aquarium Salt - Pure evaporated sea salt ($5-10)
Step-by-Step Setup Process
You have all your equipment. Here's exactly how to set up your aquarium from scratch.
Choose the Location
This is permanent - once filled, you can't move the tank.
- Sturdy, level surface (use a stand rated for aquarium weight)
- Away from direct sunlight (causes temperature swings and algae)
- Near electrical outlet (GFCI protected recommended)
- Away from vents, radiators, or drafty areas
- Account for weight: 10 gallons ≈ 110 lbs, 20 gallons ≈ 225 lbs, 40 gallons ≈ 450 lbs
Rinse Everything
Clean all equipment with water only. No soap ever! Soap residue kills fish.
- Rinse tank thoroughly
- Rinse substrate 3-5 times until water runs clear (prevents cloudy water)
- Soak driftwood for 24 hours to remove tannins (optional - tannins are harmless)
- Rinse rocks and decorations
Add Substrate
Create a gentle slope from back to front (deeper in back) for visual depth.
- Front: 1-1.5 inches deep
- Back: 2-3 inches deep
- Level the substrate before adding water
Add Decorations & Hardscape
Place rocks, driftwood, and decorations now (before water makes it harder).
- Create hiding spots and visual interest
- Leave open swimming space in the center
- Bury driftwood partially if it floats
- Ensure rocks are stable (test by pressing down firmly)
Fill with Water
Add water slowly to avoid disturbing substrate.
- Place a plate or bowl on substrate, pour water onto it (reduces disturbance)
- Fill to 1 inch below the rim
- Add water conditioner (follow bottle directions for your tank volume)
- Water will be cloudy initially - this clears in 24-48 hours
Install Equipment
Set up filter, heater, and thermometer.
- Filter: Follow manufacturer instructions. Prime filter if required. Ensure intake is clear.
- Heater: Fully submerge (check min/max water level marks). Set to 78°F initially. Wait 15 minutes before plugging in.
- Thermometer: Place opposite heater for accurate reading
- Do NOT plug anything in yet
Start the Equipment
Turn everything on and verify operation.
- Plug in filter - ensure strong water flow, no unusual noise
- Plug in heater - watch for indicator light (if equipped)
- Check for leaks around tank and filter
- Adjust filter flow if too strong (use baffle or deflector)
Add Plants (Optional)
Live plants help consume ammonia during cycling.
- Rinse plants to remove snails, debris
- Plant rooted plants 1-2 inches into substrate
- Attach epiphytes (java fern, anubias) to rocks/wood with fishing line or glue
- Don't bury rhizomes (horizontal stems) - causes rot
Begin Cycling (CRITICAL)
Do NOT add fish yet! The tank must cycle first or fish will die from ammonia poisoning.
What is Cycling?
Cycling establishes beneficial bacteria that convert toxic ammonia (from fish waste) into less harmful nitrate. This process takes 4-6 weeks. Read our complete guide: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Guide
Fishless Cycling Steps:
- Add ammonia source (pure ammonia or fish food) to reach 2 ppm
- Test daily with your test kit
- Wait for ammonia to drop and nitrite to spike (1-2 weeks)
- Wait for nitrite to drop and nitrate to appear (2-4 more weeks)
- When ammonia and nitrite both read 0 within 24 hours, cycling is complete
Speed up cycling (optional):
- Add bottled beneficial bacteria (Seachem Stability, API Quick Start)
- Use filter media from an established tank
- Keep temperature at 78-80°F (bacteria grow faster when warm)
Add Fish (After Cycling Only!)
Once ammonia and nitrite are consistently 0 ppm, you can add fish.
- Start with hardy, beginner-friendly fish
- Add only 2-3 fish initially (gives bacteria time to adjust to bioload)
- Acclimate fish properly (float bag 15 min, add tank water gradually over 30 min)
- Wait 1-2 weeks before adding more fish
- Use our Fish Stocking Calculator to avoid overstocking
Best Beginner Fish Species
These fish are hardy, adaptable, and forgiving of beginner mistakes. Perfect for your first tank.
Guppies
Colorful, active, peaceful. Breed readily.
Adult size: 1.5-2 inches | Temp: 72-82°F | pH: 6.8-7.8
Platies
Peaceful, many color varieties, easy to breed.
Adult size: 2-3 inches | Temp: 70-80°F | pH: 7.0-8.3
Zebra Danios
Extremely hardy, active swimmers, schooling fish.
Adult size: 2 inches | Temp: 64-75°F | pH: 6.5-7.5
White Cloud Mountain Minnow
Peaceful schooling fish, tolerates cooler temps.
Adult size: 1.5 inches | Temp: 64-72°F | pH: 6.0-8.0
Corydoras Catfish
Bottom-dweller, peaceful, cleans substrate.
Adult size: 2-3 inches | Temp: 72-78°F | pH: 6.5-7.8
Betta Fish
Beautiful, interactive. Must be kept alone (males fight).
Adult size: 2.5-3 inches | Temp: 76-82°F | pH: 6.5-7.5
Read our full guides: Best Fish for a 10 Gallon Tank and Betta Tank Size Guide
Ongoing Maintenance Schedule
Aquariums need regular maintenance. Here's what to do and when.
Daily (1-2 minutes)
- Feed fish (once or twice, only what they eat in 2-3 minutes)
- Check temperature
- Count fish (ensure none are missing/hiding due to illness)
- Observe behavior (changes indicate problems)
Weekly (20-30 minutes)
- 25-30% water change with gravel vacuum
- Test water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
- Clean algae from glass
- Trim dead plant leaves
- Check equipment (filter flow, heater function)
Monthly (45-60 minutes)
- Rinse filter media in old tank water (never tap water - kills bacteria)
- Replace chemical media (carbon, if used)
- Clean filter intake and output
- Deep clean decorations (if algae-covered)
- Check expiration dates on test kit reagents
Every 3-6 Months
- Replace filter cartridges/pads (only if falling apart - don't replace unnecessarily)
- Deep clean substrate (more thorough vacuuming)
- Test heater accuracy with separate thermometer
- Replace light bulbs if dimming
Never: Replace all filter media at once (removes beneficial bacteria), use soap on anything, do 100% water changes (stresses fish), or overfeed (causes ammonia spikes).
Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid
Learn from others' errors. These mistakes kill more beginner fish than anything else.
Adding Fish Before Cycling
The #1 killer. Ammonia builds up from waste and poisons fish within days. Always complete the nitrogen cycle first (4-6 weeks).
Overstocking
More fish = more waste = ammonia/nitrite spikes. Follow the inch-per-gallon rule as a starting point, then verify with our stocking calculator. Account for adult sizes.
Overfeeding
Uneaten food decays into ammonia. Feed only what fish consume in 2-3 minutes. When in doubt, underfeed. Fish can survive weeks without food but can't survive ammonia.
Buying Incompatible Fish
Research before buying. Bettas fight each other. Goldfish need cold water (most tropicals need warm). Some species grow huge (plecos reach 18+ inches). Plan fish selection carefully.
Skipping Water Changes
Nitrate accumulates over time. Weekly 25-30% water changes are required, not optional. Use dechlorinated water matched to tank temperature.
Choosing Too Small a Tank
Tanks under 10 gallons are harder for beginners. Parameters swing rapidly with small water volumes. Bigger tanks are more stable and forgiving of mistakes.
Not Testing Water
You can't see ammonia, nitrite, or pH problems. Test kits are essential for diagnosing issues before fish die. Test weekly, more often during cycling or when problems occur.
Cleaning Filter Media with Tap Water
Chlorine in tap water kills beneficial bacteria. Always rinse filter media in old aquarium water during water changes. Only replace media when it's falling apart.
Quick Reference: Complete Setup Checklist
Print or bookmark this checklist. Check off items as you acquire and install them.
Essential Equipment
- ☐ Aquarium (10+ gallons recommended)
- ☐ Filter (4-6x tank volume GPH)
- ☐ Heater (5 watts per gallon)
- ☐ Thermometer
- ☐ LED light
- ☐ Substrate (gravel or sand)
- ☐ Water conditioner
- ☐ Test kit (liquid preferred)
- ☐ Fish net
- ☐ Gravel vacuum/siphon
- ☐ Dedicated bucket
- ☐ Algae scraper
Setup Steps
- ☐ Choose stable, level location
- ☐ Rinse tank and equipment
- ☐ Add substrate
- ☐ Add decorations
- ☐ Fill with dechlorinated water
- ☐ Install filter and heater
- ☐ Start equipment
- ☐ Add plants (optional)
- ☐ Begin cycling (4-6 weeks)
- ☐ Test daily during cycle
- ☐ Verify 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite
- ☐ Add fish slowly
Frequently Asked Questions
What equipment do I need to start a beginner aquarium?
Essential equipment includes: a tank (10+ gallons recommended), filter, heater, thermometer, LED light, substrate, water conditioner, test kit, fish net, and cleaning supplies. Budget for at least $100-300 for a complete starter setup.
How much does it cost to set up a beginner aquarium?
Budget tier: $100-150 for a basic 10-gallon setup. Mid-range: $250-350 for a quality 20-gallon setup. Premium: $500+ for a fully-equipped 40+ gallon system with advanced filtration and lighting.
What size tank is best for beginners?
20 gallons is the ideal beginner size. It's large enough to be stable (easier water parameters) but small enough to be manageable. Avoid tanks under 10 gallons as they're harder to maintain due to rapid parameter swings.
Do I need a heater for my fish tank?
Yes, for most tropical fish. Most popular aquarium fish require temperatures between 76-80°F. Room temperature is typically too cold and fluctuates too much. Budget 5 watts per gallon for proper heating. Use our heater sizing calculator for exact recommendations.
How long should I wait before adding fish to a new tank?
Wait 4-6 weeks for the nitrogen cycle to complete before adding fish. This establishes beneficial bacteria that convert toxic ammonia to safer nitrate. Use a fishless cycling method with pure ammonia or fish food to speed up the process safely.
What are the best beginner fish?
Hardy beginner-friendly fish include: guppies, platies, mollies, zebra danios, white cloud mountain minnows, corydoras catfish, and cherry barbs. Bettas are also beginner-friendly but should be kept alone in tanks 5+ gallons. Read our guide: Best Fish for a 10 Gallon Tank.
Do I need live plants in my aquarium?
Live plants aren't required but highly beneficial. They consume nitrates, produce oxygen, and provide natural hiding spots. Easy beginner plants include java fern, anubias, java moss, and amazon sword. Start with 2-3 hardy plants.
How often should I change the water in a new aquarium?
After cycling: 25-30% weekly water changes. During cycling: Only change water if ammonia or nitrite exceeds 4 ppm (to prevent bacteria die-off). Always use dechlorinator and match temperature when adding new water.
Ready to Plan Your Setup?
Use our free calculators to size your equipment perfectly: